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Above the white sand beaches in Whirlpool Canyon lies a 19th-century secret lightly etched in ancient stone. Two initials and the date 1838 tell of a lost world and one man’s singular perseverance....
DATE: Dec. 10, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
We launched our rafts on the Yampa River at Deer Lodge Park, lunched at Stubs Cabin, stayed at Ponderosa Camp and ran Little Joe and Big Joe rapids. On our second afternoon, we pulled into...
DATE: July 9, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
She was dying as she took her place on the wooden wagon. Wrapped in quilts and an oil cloth against the cold pelting rain, her relatives spoke urgently, encouraging the team of horses. But it was...
DATE: June 22, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
A rock is a rock is a rock, unless it is in the middle of a fast flowing river and you are about to smash into it with the front of your boat. In which case, you’re apt to give it a name. River...
DATE: May 22, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
SALIDA – Traveling around the West, when it’s mealtime I’ll eat anything – and I have. Friends tell me that I am blessed with an iron stomach and a tasteless palate. Perhaps. I was in historic...
DATE: April 24, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
President Barack Obama has a few more choices than us. He can set aside thousands of acres in Utah as a new Bureau of Land Management national monument, while we can only hike there and hope our...
DATE: March 10, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
On frigid winter days with long winter nights, there’s nothing like a soak in a natural hot springs and one of the most historic in the Southwest is at Ojo Caliente, N.M. Pioneering Hispanic...
DATE: Feb. 20, 2015 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
In the penetrating heat of early July, storm clouds brewed to the south. Summer monsoons had yet to arrive in northern New Mexico. The temperature stood at 95 degrees as I left the truck with full...
DATE: Sept. 16, 2014 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
Clifford Duncan passed away this winter, and with his passing went centuries of Ute cultural knowledge about land and landscape. A World War II veteran in his 80s living in Neola, Utah, near Fort...
DATE: June 10, 2014 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
Set in the northern San Luis Valley, Saguache served as one of the early gateways to the San Juans and the Western Slope. When Durango was just a twinkle in railroad baron Gen. William Palmer’s...
DATE: May 13, 2014 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
At the turn of the 20th century, Colorado offered better protection for the donkeys and mules that worked in mines than for the miners themselves. Mules and donkeys were mandated by law to spend a...
DATE: April 18, 2014 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels
Who knew you could leave Durango and drive to the planet Mars? Visiting the Bisti wilderness south of Farmington certainly has the feel of another planet. Maybe that’s why 60 percent of the annual...
DATE: March 14, 2014 | COLUMN: Gulliford's travels